The 2018 Moulin-à-Vent Clos de Rochegrès has turned out beautifully, unfurling in the glass with a youthfully primary bouquet of black cherries, blackberries, candied peel and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, it's rich and layered, with an ample core of fruit, lively acids and a gourmand, enveloping profile. Its oak is already entirely integrated to the extent of being imperceptible—which, for my palate, takes this cuvée to a new level.

Shimmering violet. Pungent, mineral- and spice-accented cherry and cassis aromas pick up a smoky nuance and a hint of candied violet with air. Chewy and broad in the mouth, offering bitter cherry, dark berry and licorice flavors that show real depth as well as mineral lift. Gripping tannins frame a very long, smoky finish that echoes the floral and licorice notes.