The latest rendition of Laurent-Perrier's NV Brut is showing nicely, wafting from the glass with scents of almond paste, iodine, white peach, warm biscuits and mandarin. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, with an elegant, lively profile, displaying a youthfully frothy mousse, good tension at the core and an attractively chalky finish. This is an excellent non-vintage wine that seems to reflect the maison's efforts to improve their grape sourcing over the last few years.

The current NV Ultra Brut is a 52% Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir blend that is based on the 2007 vintage; it includes – as always – a reserve of the former Ultra Brut vintage, in this case 2004. In fact, the Ultra Brut is produced only every three years on average and the 2007 base is only the twelfth cuvée since the (1976), which was released in 1989. It is citrus-colored and has some very nice white-golden reflections. Bright and fresh on the intensely-flavored brioche nose, this vibrant, round and mouth-filling Champagne reveals a persistent mineral complexity and structure, along with very elegant and refreshing citrus fruit.

Pleasant ripe apple fruit with almost buttery-tropical notes and oyster shell nuances.