The 2017 Moulin-à-Vent wafts from the glass with a beautiful and incipiently complex bouquet of cherries, raspberries, candied peel and warm spices. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and pure, framed by velvety tannins and succulent acids and concludes with a sapid, subtly oak-inflected finish.

The 2018 Côte de Nuits-Villages Le Vaucrain (Domaine Louis Jadot) opens in the glass with notes of sweet red berries and cherries mingled with hints of spices and orange rind. Medium to full-bodied, bright and tangy, with fine, chalky tannins and a nicely concentrated core of fruit, this is a serious effort that punches above its appellation weight and will repay bottle age.

A dense white with lots of character, offering dried-apple, salt and straw aromas. It’s full-bodied with bright hints of cooked apples, light vanilla and nougat. Really complex and really excellent for the appellation. Drinkable now, but better in two or three years.

The beautifully proportioned 2018 Hermitage La Chapelle comes across as a complex, complete version of this renowned bottling, with no rough edges—just moderate spice, cassis, red berries and cedar on the nose. It's medium to full-bodied, silky and fine, brimming with harmony and elegance on the palate, while the finish is long, echoing with cassis, charcoal and crushed stone. The tannins firm up a bit on the finish, so I suspect this will close down soon, then blossom sometime after 2025.