The 2008 Brut Millésimé opens in the glass with lovely aromas of lemon oil, green apple, warm biscuits, iodine and mandarin. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and seamless, with an elegantly layered core, a fine, pinpoint mousse and racy balancing acids, concluding with a long and incipiently biscuity finish. This is a classy vintage Champagne that will develop beautiful complexity in the cellar.

Pale tawny ruby. Pretty good price for a serviceable example of one of the great wines of the world. Correct and well balanced with a dry tangy finish and really rather entrancing fruit. No need to wait for this. If you’re wondering what the Barolo fuss is about, try this introductory offer from the decent co-op.

Owned by the Pagès family, this rich wine is dense and structured. It has layers of dusty tannins and full black-currant fruit from the 60% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Drink this firm wine with great fruit from 2023.