The current NV Ultra Brut is a 52% Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir blend that is based on the 2007 vintage; it includes – as always – a reserve of the former Ultra Brut vintage, in this case 2004. In fact, the Ultra Brut is produced only every three years on average and the 2007 base is only the twelfth cuvée since the (1976), which was released in 1989. It is citrus-colored and has some very nice white-golden reflections. Bright and fresh on the intensely-flavored brioche nose, this vibrant, round and mouth-filling Champagne reveals a persistent mineral complexity and structure, along with very elegant and refreshing citrus fruit.

Exceptionally subtle wood influence easily allows the cool and very pure aromas of essence of green apple, pear, quinine and sea breeze to be appreciated. There is lovely intensity and vibrancy to the chiseled and attractively textured middle weight flavors that exude evident minerality on the focused and dry finish where the only reproach is a touch of warmth. This is already appealing and should only become more so with 6 to 10 years of aging.

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers 1er Cru has an elegant, precise bouquet, one of my picks among Jadot’s 2018s Gevreys. So pretty! The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, fleshy and silky-smooth. The caressing finish demonstrates more oak integration than the Estournelles or the Lavaux. Excellent.