The latest rendition of Laurent-Perrier's NV Brut is showing nicely, wafting from the glass with scents of almond paste, iodine, white peach, warm biscuits and mandarin. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, with an elegant, lively profile, displaying a youthfully frothy mousse, good tension at the core and an attractively chalky finish. This is an excellent non-vintage wine that seems to reflect the maison's efforts to improve their grape sourcing over the last few years.

The latest iteration of Laurent-Perrier's NV Brut Cuvée Rosé is showing brilliantly, bursting from the glass with notes of smoky red berry fruit, apples, blood orange, pomegranate and warm biscuits. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, broad and vinous, with a delicate mousse, good depth at the core and ripe acids, concluding with a sapid, gently phenolic finish. This is a sophisticated, gastronomic rosé that would work well at table.

The current NV Ultra Brut is a 52% Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir blend that is based on the 2007 vintage; it includes – as always – a reserve of the former Ultra Brut vintage, in this case 2004. In fact, the Ultra Brut is produced only every three years on average and the 2007 base is only the twelfth cuvée since the (1976), which was released in 1989. It is citrus-colored and has some very nice white-golden reflections. Bright and fresh on the intensely-flavored brioche nose, this vibrant, round and mouth-filling Champagne reveals a persistent mineral complexity and structure, along with very elegant and refreshing citrus fruit.

A dense and flavorful chardonnay with creamy texture and flavor. Lots of citrus and grapefruit and very vinous. A blanc de blancs with weight yet freshness. Pure chardonnay with no dosage. A new wine. Lovely finish. 40% 2009 and 60% 2012. Drink now.

This is in a new bottle, like the stout ones used for the rosé and blanc de blancs. This is very structured with a density and richness with hints of strawberry to the apple character. Bubbles turn fine textured at the end. Delicious flavors of biscuits and dried apple in the finish. Special character to this because of the very ripe vintage. Disgorged in November 2021. This is half chardonnay and half pinot noir. This can age well due to the phenolics. Drink or hold.

This is really something. Electric on the palate. The aromas are so complex with sliced fresh and dried ginger, subtle pie crust, tarte tatin and hints of nutmeg with some salted caramel. Toasted bread, too. Always subtle. The palate is full- to medium-bodied yet hemmed-in with a freshness and balance that draws you back. Savory and vibrant. It's full of energy. Spectacular. Fascinating. Symphonic blend of 2012, 2008 and 2007. 65% of the 2012, 25% of the 2008 and 10% of the 2007. Eight grand cru. Chardonnay 58% and 42% pinot noir. Disgorged February 2023. 10 years on the lees. 7g/L dosage. Drink or hold.